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1) GLAZING RETAINING BRACKET
Screw all Glass / Polycarbonate retaining brackets into place, we recommend 2 per glazing panel. the brackets are 101mm long and 20mm wide. Please ensure this is taken into account when working out your Glass / Polycarbonate sizes. I.e. overhang into gutter and coverage on bars.
2) BASE GLAZING GASKET
Cut all lengths to size making sure there is sufficient overhang into your choice of gutter.
The rubber has been designed with a foot that can be fitted into a grove if required. If not snip the stem and tear off (Fig. 2). Note, if used without the foot the gasket will need fixing into place. The high side gasket can also be used as shown (Fig 2a)
3) RIDGE BASE
Cut Ridge Base to same length as the Ridge Board and screw down at approximately 350mm intervals (do not over tighten)
4) GLAZING HIPPED END (VICTORIAN)
Fit sheet closure to your glazing material, running a thin line of silicone sealant along the top inside face of the sheet closure (this can be done for all pieces of glazing you have). Place the glazing panels onto the hips, making sure they are sitting in the glazing retaining brackets. Cut the hips to length fit the glazing gasket and end caps. Position and screw down through the pre-drilled holes. Clip the cover cap into position to cover the screws. There are 3 types of glazing gasket to choose from, High side EPDM, Bubble and Standard Cap EPDM gasket.
5) RIDGE TOP PREPARATION
The length of the ridge top will be dependant on the pitch and type of roof.
The ridge and end casting have been designed to fit snugly together and neatly over the hips (fig 5a, this drawing also shows lead dressing which is fitted prior to the ridge and casting).
Trim the cresting channel back 50mm at the front to allow for the finial to be fitted and at the back for lead dressing. Trim back the legs underneath 30mm to allow for the end casting to fit into and upto the ridge (Fig 5b).
Run a thin bead of silicone on the inside of the ridge before you slide the end casting into place. To secure together put a silicon seal on the base of the finial screw fit into position.
Fit the ridge flipper leaving it appropriately 50mm longer ready for any trim detail required once the ridge has been fitted.
6) FITTING RIDGE TOP
The position of the ridge top will depend upon the pitch of the roof and the presentation of the main and hip rafters (Fig 6)
When fitting the ridge top make sure you do not push it too far into the base this is to allow for the top cap to be fitted (Fig 6)
7) MAIN AND WALL BARS
Cut the main bars to length, fit end cap, screw down through the bar and fix to the timber rafter at 300mm intervals along its length. When fitting make sure the main bar top cap is sitting on top of the ridge flipper seal. Push the ridge top home to its final position (fig 6)
When measuring and ordering your glazing panel for the space abutting the wall, make sure the glazing gap is sufficient, so that when you fix the top cap the screw will miss the glazing material (Fig 7)
8) EDWARDIAN HIPS AND JACK BARS
You must glaze the jack bars first in the same manner as the Victorian Hips. The hip top cap will be the last thing to be fixed into position when glazing this area of the roof.
The jack bars including the screw cover cap will fit underneath the hip as in drawing (Fig 8)
To fit the the cover cap, position one side and the roll it over to the other side for a tight snap fit.
(Fig 9) |
